EWWW What Happened??
- Avra Amar Filion
- Nov 11
- 12 min read
This is not just a regular blog post. If you have stumbled upon this blog, and you are feeling any disappointment in our company due to our current changes, please, with all of my heart I ask you to read this full blog, even with it being lengthy. This post comes with a conviction and a passionate belief.
When my parents (Alma & Terry Filion) first started Bioderma, I watched them stand by two philosophies "Skin care is health care" "Nothing harmful should ever be in the products even if it means decreased sale. We always need to put our clients well-being before profit." I saw our company name change over the years from Homepathica, Holistica Skin Care, Holistic Skin Care but even if the name of the company changed that moral obligation we felt to provide healthy and safe cosmetics with outstanding results never changed.
So I write this post because I have one client who constantly states "Bioderma products were the best." often comparing the products we make today to the formulas from 35 years ago. As the chemist, I find this very frustrating and insulting because no cosmetic company has the exact same formulas that they had from 30 years ago due to the fact that the suppliers go out of business, methods of preparation change, suppliers change their raw materials and how they are processed, or even the fact that Health Canada might deem an ingredient unsafe due to updated research. Here is the thing, mega companies don't have clients putting them down, yelling at them, insulting them when they make changes or discontinue a product... However Zanqara appears to not get the same understanding or kindness when we are forced to makes changes. Our current changes are very drastic.
WHEN I SAY DRASTIC I MEAN "DRASTIC".. as one client referred to it "UNACCEPTABLE"..
So before explain this change, let me ask you the following questions...
Do you care about your health?
Are you taking vitamins to enhance your health?
Are upset about all the chemicals that are sprayed on your food or dangerous ingredients lurking in the food you eat?
Is what you eat important to you?
Do you care about the environment?
Do you like it when people lie to you?
Do you like being deceived?
Do support animal testing?
All those question are key to what I am going to write. Of course you care about your health. You care that you maintain well-being internally and externally. You do not want cancer, reproductive issues, cognitive degeneration, mobility issues, hormonal imbalance, hair loss, respiratory problems; you don't want skin disorders: large pores, dryness, excessive oiliness, eczema, sun spots, and advance aging. You are reading this post because you care about your health. Almost everyone of our clients are taking vitamins, minerals or super foods in order to achieve a healthy body. They are providing their bodies with has much supplementary care that they can in order to ensure they do not face physical decay for a lack of maintenance. I speak to majority of our clients and even wholesalers share the belief system of their clients and what I hear is the following statements: "I don't eat any processed foods" "I only eat organic and natural food." "I am against pesticides or anything that could be on my food and effect my health with long term exposure." "I check the ingredients on everything before I purchase it." "I will not eat anything with artificial flavors or colors." Chances are even if you are not ultra picky, you still care enough to not want to eat something dangerous. I also know that if you are reading this post, you have the moral cause to want to do good... good by yourself and good by the environment. You are not going to dump paint thinner in the a local water source. You are not going to pour perfume in your dogs water bowl. Ultimately because you are aware of toxins and the impact dangerous chemicals can have in more ways than one.
All the things we mentioned above makes you a powerful free thinker; an individual that has weighed the pros and cons of their daily actions and are convicted enough to make certain decisions to achieve ultimate goals. That is why you also feel anger when labels are not accurate on food, or when your phone provider promised one thing but your next bill is not what was promised. As Stacey from The Little Black Book said "Omission is betrayal".. it is one of the most underhanded, intentional and calculated forms of lying. You don't want to be lied too or deceived. You have every right to demand transparency and truth from companies, government, family, friends, co-workers, church and even from yourself.
Lastly animal testing.... There is no question that if you are reading this you are a strong believer in animal welfare, you believe in preserving the innocence and wellbeing of fluffy babies no matter what they are (rats including and reptiles/marine life). You DO NOT SUPORRT blind testing that could result in health problems or torture.
So now that we established the high moral person you are and life principles you cherish... we unfortunately have to tell you that in one section of your life all those principles have been discarded and you have been deceived.
The world of cosmetics is one of the largest blind testing, omission based industries that poisons the world and you.
In the last few years we have seen raw material companies add more and more harmful substances to extracts, to the so called "natural fragrance oils", to the colorants. I call it "pay-it-forward deception".. Manufactures secretly makes changes to raw materials and if a company is not diligent those added new ingredients goes into a product that will impact you - the beneficiary of a grand omission. That is why Zanqara makes every product with fresh ingredients (some to which we farm ourselves). We do not buy extracts anymore that had pigmentation, harsh preservatives and deodorizers recently added. We have had to make as a client said "DRASTIC" changes to abide by our company philosophy that your well-being needs to be our only main priority.
That decision has come with serious backlash, insults, berating and surprisingly threats.
The only threat we are concerned about is the threat to your health and we will not compromise in our company's integrity and promise even if it means not reaching the heights of big brands that are willing to deceive you for the bottom line and high shareholder paydays.
Health Canada is regularly adding more more ingredients to the restricted and prohibited hot list. We advise consumers to review this lists.
Now the EU after years of allowing harmful chemicals and synthetics to be beautifully hidden behind "fragrances / parfum" on your cosmetic ingredient list... they are finally announcing that these ingredients are serious allergens. That will need to be disclosed on labels if
"Disclosure of certain fragrance allergens
The Cosmetic Regulations allow the use of the term "parfum" at the end of the list of ingredients to indicate that a fragrance ingredient, or a fragrance mixture is present in the cosmetic. Disclosure of all ingredients of a fragrance mixture used in a cosmetic could result in a product label that is hundreds of ingredients long and impractical with respect to legibility. Globally, fragrance ingredients and mixtures are considered proprietary information. There are no jurisdictions that require the entire fragrance composition of a cosmetic on the labels.
For a number of individuals, certain fragrance ingredients can cause allergic skin reactions when they come in contact with their skin. The Cosmetic Regulations were amended to require that when certain allergens are found in a cosmetic product above a certain amount, they need to be listed individually in the list of ingredients, outside of the term "parfum". This allows consumers to identify ingredients to which they maybe allergic or sensitive to, or wish to avoid, which will help people in Canada make informed decision regarding the products they purchase and use.
Canada's new requirements will align with the European Union with respect to the disclosure of fragrance allergens within the list of ingredients on cosmetic labels and will also maintain consistency with any future changes to the list of fragrance allergens in the E.U., ensuring future alignment. Starting on April 12, 2026, there will be 24 fragrance allergens that must be included in the list of ingredients on the cosmetic label, when present in the formulation at a concentration above 0.001% in leave-on products or above 0.01% in rinse-off products. This list will be expanded to 81 fragrance allergens for new cosmetics starting August 1, 2026. Existing products will have to disclose the expanded list of fragrance allergens on their labels, when present in the formulation above the specified threshold as of August 1, 2028."
Now you have to consider something. Your average day cream comes in a 30ml jar from most cosmetic brands.. 0.001% is enough to trigger an allergic reaction, cause hormone disruption and many health issues.. but what is 0.001%? Well, one drop of perfume weighs approximately 0.04 -0.06g (that's ONE DROP).. so, 0.001% in a 30ml jar would be 0.0003g.. thats 1/100th of a drop is enough to trigger you. If we had to visually demonstrate that, it would mean adding a single poppy seed to entire jar of night cream.. A single poppy seed weight amount can cause itching, hives, swelling, puffiness, heavy breathing, rashes, redness and more. A single poppy weight amount with longer term exposure in your daily skin care routine is enough to effect your health, your brain health, your reproductive health and pollute the environment by simply being washed down the drain when you cleanse your face, wash hands or wash your hair.
BUT WAIT.... my math is all wrong. Because companies NEED to disclose if such allergens are in the product above concentrations of 0.001% or more. What percentage is actually in your product?
Typical Concentration Ranges
Product Type | Typical Fragrance Percentage | Notes |
Facial Creams & Lotions (Leave-on) | 0.1% - 1% | These products use very low concentrations because they are applied to sensitive facial skin and left on for extended periods. |
Body Lotions & Creams (Leave-on) | 1% - 3% | A slightly higher concentration is generally safe for the less sensitive skin on the body. |
Body Washes & Shampoos (Rinse-off) | 1% - 3% (up to 4%) | Higher concentrations are used in wash-off products to ensure a pleasant scent remains after rinsing, as the product has limited contact time with the skin. |
Perfumes/Fine Fragrances | 10% - 30% | These are not skincare products but fine fragrances designed for scent longevity, with high alcohol content as a primary solvent. |
Now that is just the average recommended usage to be in cosmetics and if using 0.1% as the starting point of a 30ml jar we are already 333 times more than the declaration amount stated by Health Canada. That is not the worse part because most fragrance manufactures recommend based on the certain fragrances to use anywhere from 3.25% to 17% in a leave-on body lotion formula. 10% of 30mls is 3g.
Keep in mind EU requires that companies will be obligated to tell you if there is 0.001% in a product. We established in 30ml that 0.001% would be 0.0003g and that is enough to cause a reaction... but based on most manufactures they recommend higher percentages so you can smell the fragrances and maintain a long lasting product. So that 3g of fragrance oil in your 30ml product is already 10,000 times more than the warning threshold. That is being absorbed into your skin, entering your blood and circulating around your entire body. Mental fog, rashes that appear out of no where, acne that just won't go away, food allergies developing from nowhere, depression as stated:
"Many of these chemicals are known neurotoxins, subtly tampering with brain function, hormones, and emotional stability. Phthalates, common in air fresheners and scented soaps, have been linked to hormone disruption and mood disorders. Parabens, found in shampoos and lotions, mimic estrogen in the body, creating a perfect storm for anxiety and depression. And synthetic fragrances? They’re often a mystery blend of dozens (sometimes hundreds) of unregulated chemicals, some of which interfere with the nervous system." Turning Point
We suggest you read:
And
Now many cosmetic companies know that people are becoming weary of synthetic fragrances and the potential health problems associated, so they market themselves as "Natural" and use essential oils. Yes, essential oils can be wonderful, we use Tea Tree Oil in our Blemex line. HOWEVER, many people are sensitive to essential oils and if not used or diluted properly they too can have severe impact on your health and your skin.
"High concentrations of fragrance oils, even natural essential oils, can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions, especially for individuals with sensitive skin. Formulators prioritize safety by using low, effective concentrations." Google AI
"Problems posed by essential oils. The different recipes propose the addition of one or more essential oils. Among the different recipes for facial care products, the difference in the number of different essential oils is not significant (p=0.635; Figure 9). On the contrary, there is a significant difference (p=0.0026) between the recipes for facial care and body care products (Figure 10).
One of the issues that these recipes pose is our lack of knowledge about the possible interactions of essential oils with each other and/or the excipient.
Moreover, the use of such recipes does not eliminate the risk of adverse effects. All the essential oils identified during this study can cause contact allergies and allergic contact dermatitis21–25 or even photosensitization phenomena, which is a characteristic of citrus essential oils.26–28 Some recipe websites specify that essential oils without furocoumarins must be used. This is a wise recommendation, as it is known that these molecules are responsible for phototoxic and potentially carcinogenic effects.29"
"Are essential oils poisonous?
Many people think essential oils are harmless because they are natural and have been used for a long time. However, many essential oils can cause rashes if used on the skin and some can be poisonous if they are absorbed through the skin or swallowed. For example, swallowed pennyroyal oil is highly poisonous to the liver. Aspirating an essential oil can cause pneumonia, which can occur if someone tries to swallow it but chokes so that some enters the lungs.
Depending on how an essential oil product is made, there could be toxicity from other ingredients. These products often contain other oils or alcohol. Children have thin skin and immature livers, which might make them more susceptible to toxic effects than adults. Essential oils may also interact with medications." www.poison.org
National Institute of Health established that some essential oils can cause seizures in perfectly healthy people. Most essential oils can cause seizures in pets from just room diffusers. Lavender essential oil in cosmetics alone can cause early or delayed puberty in children with long term exposure because it is an endocrine disruptor.
I could write another 100 pages on this matter, provide hundreds of documents of research material and scientific studies... Here is the truth.. What you are putting on your skin is equal if not worse than what you find in your food and you apply it multiple times a day and mix chemicals like a mixologist.. You mix one day cream from one company with a cleanser from another, a setting spray from another, a foundation from three different companies, lip stick from another company all scented and all pigmented and all filled with hidden destroyers.
You didn't test on animals but you were the test subject for lethal untested chemical blends. You are the test subject until new research is established but by then it's already too late. You were deceived and lied to about the safety of the product you bought to make yourself look and feel pretty... and all those lies get washed down the drain to further pollute the environment and other living matters. All that you strive to protect demolished by a multi-billion dollar industry that knows all to well that the right smell equals a sale.
NOT US! I will use a family example. I adore my darling mother, but she has diabetes. She always wants carbs and pastries and has ordained me as the household "dictator" because I won't let her indulge in such yummies. I love my mommy sooo much that I won't allow her to make her self sick for a moments pleasure because long term she is more important to me than a fleeting falsely induce serotonin rise.
A deliciously scented skin care product produces the same serotonin spike as a scrumptious red velvet cupcake. You, however are part of the Zanqara family and that means that you matter more than a sale. So, all our products are the true smell, and true color of all the combine fresh ingredients. We don't use deodorizers to reduce unpleasant smells because those are harmful too. NOPE.. You get the real deal.
We hope that our clients see we are genuinely are caring for them. So maybe our products smell "Eww" in comparison to products sold in Shoppers, Sephora, Bath and Body and other Canadian businesses that use essential oils. We truly care that you have the best and safest products you can purchase.
You deserve healthy skin and a healthy body and mind.
I want to end with one quote.
"To live without self-respect is to lie awake some night, beyond the reach of warm milk, phenobarbital, and the sleeping hand on the coverlet, counting up the sins of commission and omission, the trusts betrayed, the promises subtly broken, the gifts irrevocably wasted through sloth or cowardice or carelessness. However long we postpone it, we eventually lie down alone in that notoriously uncomfortable bed, the one we make ourselves. Whether or not we sleep in it depends, of course , on whether or not we respect ourselves.”
--Joan Didion, Slouching Towards Bethlehem
Many companies break promises, they omit the truth and betray your trust, and waste the gift to be of service to you and your goal of a healthier younger you.. But the self respect to know you deserve better than aromatic narcissism will allow to sleep in the bed of peace, knowing you are preserving your tomorrow.
Why Fragrance Free Is Better - Paula's Choice
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